Printing an Easy Repeat Pattern on Fabric with Permaset Metallic Ink

This is a fantastically quick way of printing a repeat pattern onto fabric. The block is so speedy to make, using a plastic inking plate and stick-back foam. We are using Permaset Aqua Metallic Textile Screen Printing Ink which works beautifully with a Textile Roller to print onto dark fabric. See the entire process in a video below and read on for the steps!

Begin with a piece of paper the same size as your plastic plate. In order to create a repeat pattern without an obvious grid repeat, we want the prints to tessellate a little. Draw a wavy line along one side of the paper. Cut off this end section, move it to the other side and, keeping it in the same orientation and draw along the edge. Do the same for the top and bottom of the paper.

Cut off the remaining two edges along the drawn lines. You should have a piece of paper with the same shape left and right and the same shape top and bottom.

Next, place the paper underneath the plastic plate. We are going to use this shape as a guideline for placing our foam.

Cut shapes from the sticky foam and arrange them on top of the plate within the area of the paper. Make sure to go close to the edges of the paper as this is where the pattern will meet.

When you are happy with the layout, unpeel the sticky back from each piece of foam and stick it to the plastic plate. Check that your prints will fit together by testing the paper at the top, bottom, left and right of the foam shapes.

We are using Permaset Metallic Textile Screen Printing Ink in this beautiful copper. We are printing onto dark denim.

Printing onto a padded surface will help us get a strong, even print. Pin the fabric onto the padded surface to stop it moving whilst you are printing.

Because we are using screen printing ink, we need to use a Textile Roller. This roller is slightly spongy which stops it slipping in the ink. Roll out a small square of ink on an inking tray.

Use the roller to transfer ink to the block. We need to be fairly generous with the coverage without it becoming splodgy. Aim for a suedey texture rather than drag marks and thick edges.


Use a rag to wipe off any ink that may have got onto the plate.

Place the block face down onto the fabric. The transparent plate will enable you to see exactly where the print will go.

Press down onto the black of the block with the flat of your hands.

Lift the block to reveal the print.

Re-ink the block. Place it alongside the first print. The transparent plate will enable you to place the shapes for a snug, even repeat pattern.

The copper ink prints beautifully on the dark denim. Standard screen printing inks will not show up on dark fabrics. This metallic ink is semi-opaque and prints brightly. Below, the same block has been used to print onto black fabric where it is even brighter!

To heat set the fabric, when the ink is completely dry, iron the print with a dry iron until it is hot to the touch.

To make this project you will need:

Meet the Maker: Tristan Sherwood

My name is Tristan Sherwood and I’m an Art Lecturer and Printmaker based in Cornwall. 

Describe your printmaking process.

I enjoy experimenting with many types of printmaking but relief-printing has become my chief mode of working. I really like the tension of the cutting tool against the surface. I find the nature of relief appealing, there is either a surface to be inked or areas where it is removed, I enjoy finding different ways of negotiating this limitation.

With all of my work I am aiming for a balance between working intuitively and conceptually. I am drawn to pattern and the decorative and I try to combine this with personal narratives which sometimes touch on social history. I spend quite a lot of time planning out and drawing my designs before I cut and print them. I also enjoy printing onto fabric and the more craft based applications this offers, my house is full of soft furnishings I have created including cushions and lampshades. Although drawing is central to my practice, I also enjoy developing ideas digitally and with collage as this often generates unexpected imagery. I like to have examples of relief printmaking in front of me when I work, it’s fascinating and I inspiring to see how each artist’s approach to cutting and mark making varies. My heroes are Enid Marx, Peggy Angus, Shiela Robinson, Edward Bawden and Peter Green, to name a few!

How and where did you learn to print?

I went to Canterbury Art college in the late 90’s with the full intention of becoming a sculptor, however I ended up on the Graphic Fine Art pathway which incorporated print and text. I have always enjoyed processes, tools and craft and relief printing is a very sculptural form of image making.  Most of my  printmaking knowledge has been self taught, often to enable me to teach others! I like to think that I am always learning and refining my practice, I really enjoy the opportunity to learn from other printmakers as there are always so many different techniques and approaches to learn about.

Why printmaking?

I love how democratic it is as an art form, it’s rich political and social history, printed images have played such an important role in shaping culture. I also love the process, cutting, carving, inking up etc. From teaching colour theory I have developed such a fascination for the way colour behaves, I can happily spend hours mixing colours and I am continually surprised and delighted by the way different combinations of colours work together. I never rush this process and I never mix colours when I’m tired. In printmaking you are often required to work with a very restricted palette and I enjoy this challenge.

Where do you work? 

I am lucky enough to have a small studio permanently set up in my home in the spare bedroom, which is a godsend! However I’ll work anywhere! If I’ve been teaching all day and I’m tired I’ll often sketch ideas out in bed! My favourite place to cut is the breakfast bar in the kitchen, I like the light and enjoy being in the hustle and bustle of family life rather than being locked away, although I think my trail of Lino pieces around the house probably drives everyone else mad!

Describe a typical day in your studio.

I don’t really have a typical day! I rarely get a full day as I teach art full time and have a young family, so printmaking often has to fit around other demands. Fortunately printmaking seems to be suited to this situation and I aim for little and often, picking up where I left off. In the holidays I often get up early and get on with any inking up and printing before breakfast, as this is often a more involved process its best to do it when the house is quiet and there are less distractions!

How long have you been printmaking? 

Although I went to Art college and teach art (so you could say 20 years plus!) I think I seriously picked up my personal practice about 4 years ago.

What inspires you?

The contents of the V&A or the national folk museum at Compton Verney would be a good start. Any museum or gallery is a great place to get inspiration. I also love bric a brac shops and National Trust houses. I’m often drawn to working class objects which chronicle social history such as reform and corn law jugs or nursery plates, Staffordshire flat-backs, early woodcuts, especially those found in chap books, geometry, beautiful textiles, carvings, beautiful prints and drawings and the Cornish landscape!

What is your favourite printmaking product?

At present it’s either Ternes registration clips, which have transformed my attempts at accurate registration from a terrifying gamble into an absolute pleasure! Or… my new Flexicut micro palm cutting tools which are so nice to use!

What have you made that you are most proud of?

My first large scale Lino print ‘Voynich Dandies’ was a real turning point for me, it signalled a serious re-engagement with printmaking, so for that reason I’m very proud of it.

Where can we see your work? Where do you sell?

I have recently started showing with Atrium Gallery in Cornwall who have been so encouraging and supportive. I also have work for sale at 15 Collingwood in the arts quarter of Northampton which stocks a marvellous collection of vintage and modern Art, furniture and objects. I have also set up an Etsy account which is linked to my Instagram page where you can purchase my work directly.

What will we be seeing from you next? 

I have been doing a series of quite large Linocuts for quite some time, so I’m really really excited about working on some smaller scale work and more reductive pieces with a broader range of colours. I tend to work in either a playful abstract way which is often an intuitive approach to landscape, pattern and geometry or a more illustrative approach depicting antique ceramics.

Do you have any advice for other printmakers and creatives?

Good cutting tools make a huge difference as do good inks, so visit a specialist supplier and slowly build up your equipment, better to have a few good quality materials and add what you need as your confidence builds. Start on smaller projects and spend time really planning. The online community of artists and printmakers on Instagram has been such a positive experience and really supports my practice. I would recommend setting up an account and following printmakers you admire.

For more of Tristan Sherwood’s work:
Instagram: @tristan_sherwood_printmaker
Website:https://trisso76.wixsite.com/printmaker
Etsy shop
Atrium Gallery
15 Collingwood

Glossary of Printmaking Terminology

Scroll through the list below to find definitions and explanations of common printmaking terms:

Acid-free – refers to papers that are made with an alkaline pulp, usually with calcium carbonate added. Acids contribute to the deterioration of paper and therefore of prints.

Aisuki – a rounded, bevelled chisel tool used in Japanese Woodblock Printing, often used for clearing areas of wood. You can find Aisukis here.

A la poupée – an intaglio printmaking technique in which different coloured inks are applied to a plate with a wad of fabric.

Aquatint – an etching technique in which tones are achieved. Usually, a metal plate is given an acid-resistant coating before being placed in an acid bath. The acid bites into the plate, producing a surface that can hold ink for printing. Tonal variations are achieved by varying the length of time in the acid bath.

Artist’s Proof (AP) – Artist’s proof prints are made by the artist to check the print quality and design before printing an edition. Artist’s Proof prints usually shouldn’t exceed 10% of the overall number in the edition. They are usually identical to the edition but may sometimes include slightly flawed prints omitted from the edition. See our blog post on editioning prints for more information.

Baren – a disk-shaped printmaking tool used to hand burnish a print by rubbing it over the surface of the paper when it is in contact with the inked-up block. Find barens here.

Bed – refers to the flat surface of a printing press on which the block or plate is laid.

Bench hook – a tool that hooks onto a table with a stop to hold a block in place whilst it is being carved. Bench hooks can be found here.

Binder – (see medium) a clear substance to which pigment is added to create printmaking inks.

Bite – the action of an acid on a metal plate.

Blanket – used as cushions in printmaking presses between the roller and the paper.

Bleed – where ink appears outside the designed areas of a print. Digitally, bleed can also refer to the extension of the design beyond the cut or crop line to ensure the image runs to the edge of the print.

Blind emboss – an embossed impression in the paper, often made from a block without ink.

Block – the material into which a design is carved for relief printmaking, e.g. lino, ply etc.

Bon a tirer (BAT) – The first perfect print to come from the printing surface. This is usually made when the artist themselves is not printing the edition: a B.A.T print is used to show the print from which the whole edition should be matched. There is usually only one of these. See our blog post on editioning prints for more information.

Brayer – a roller used to apply ink to a printing surface. Rollers can be found here.

Burin – an engraving tool with a metal shaft and usually a sharp V gouge point.

Burr – in drypoint, the ridge of metal (or plastic) thrown up on either side of the needle as it scratches into the plate. In mezzotint, the surface created by the action of the rocker.

Carborundum – silicon carbide – a fine powder used in intaglio printmaking. When applied to a plate, carborundum creates a rough, even surface that holds a lot of ink. Carborundum can also be used for levelling the surface of a lithography stone. Fine carborundum here.

Chine Collé – a process in which ink is transferred onto a thin sheet of paper (such as archival tissue paper) whilst simultaneously sticking the thin sheet to a stronger, thicker sheet of paper. Traditionally used to enable fine, delicate prints, now more often used to add areas of coloured paper to a single colour print. See more here.

Chop – a small mark printed in the margins of a print to show the maker. Traditionally, a chop shows the printer or publisher but is now sometimes used to show the artist.

CMYK – cyan, magenta, yellow and black. This colour system is used in halftone screen printing, where each colour is created as its own halftone exposed screen and printed separately, giving the overall look of a full-colour print.

Collagraph – a print made from a plate that has been layered with various natural and found materials to a base and then usually varnished. These are often printed using the intaglio method but can also be printed in relief. See our collagraph blog post here.

Cutting tool – a tool used for carving into a block. These can be V gouges, U gouges, hangito knives etc. Cutting tools can be found here.

Cyanotype – an early form of photography that uses two solutions mixed together to create ‘blueprints’. Read more about making cyanotypes here.

Dabber/dauber – a wad of cloth used to apply ink to a block or plate. Also used to apply grounds to etching plates.

Deckled edge – A rough, irregular edge on a piece of printmaking paper.

DPI – dots per inch – the number of pixels in one inch of an image. 300dpi is usually standard for high-quality printing.

Drypoint – an intaglio printmaking method where an image is scratched onto a plate creating a burr that holds ink. See how to make a drypoint print here.

Durometer – measures hardness, for example, the shore of squeegees. The higher the number, the harder the material.

Edition – a set of identical prints taken from the same matrix or matrices (printing surfaces). Editions can either be limited or open. Limited editions mean that no more of the same prints will be made. Read more about editioning in our blog post here.

Emboss – an impression in the paper, often made from a block without ink.

Emulsion – when mixed with sensitiser, a photo emulsion can be used to coat screens to create exposed images for screen printing. Find emulsion here.

Engraving – a printmaking technique in which lines are carved directly into a plate using a burin.

Etching – an intaglio technique in which a plate is prepared with resistant material before being exposed to an acid that bites into the remaining surface. When charged with ink, the bitten surface retains the ink, allowing the design to be printed. The term ‘etching’ is also used to refer to similar techniques such as ‘drypoint etching’ where no acid is used.

Exposure – in screen printing, where a screen coated with sensitised emulsion is exposed to a light source with a design on a transparency between the screen and the light. The light hardens the emulsion it can reach, leaving the areas of the design soft and washable. This results in a screen with areas of open mesh in the desired design.

Extender – a transparent modifier to add to ink. Adding extender can make the colour more transparent and can loosen the ink.

Giclée – an archival fine art digital printmaking process.

Gouge -A tool used to carve a block for relief printing. Can have a V or a U shaped end.

Halftone – The breakdown of an image into small dots to simulate the look of continuous tones. Greyscale images need to be broken down into halftones in order to be exposed onto screens for screen printing. More about halftones here.

Hand burnish – taking a print by hand or by using a baren instead of a press. Paper is placed over the inked up block and then rubbed over with a hand, baren, wooden spoon or similar to transfer the ink to the paper.

Hangito – a Japanese Woodblock Printing cutting tool that looks like an angled sharp knife with one bevelled edge. Find hangitos here.

Hardground – a substance added to the surface of an etching plate to resist acid. A hardground can be drawn into with a sharp tool to reveal areas of metal to the acid bath.

Honing – sharpening or maintaining a sharp edge on a cutting tool.

Intaglio – a printmaking method using an image that has been incised into a plate. Ink is worked into the recesses of the plate and is usually printed onto dampened paper through an etching press. Drypoints, etchings and collagraphs can all be printed intaglio.

Japanese Woodblock (Mokuhanga) – a type of relief printmaking in which brushes are used to ink up a woodblock with watercolour paint and nori paste. Images are printed onto dampened paper in layers, often registered using kento marks. Learn more about Japanese Woodblock here.

Key block – the key layer in a print that gives the main detail or outline of an image. Usually printed first or last in a multi-layered print.

Kento – Japanese Woodblock method of registration. Kento marks are cut into a block using a kento chisel. The corner of the paper slots into these marks so that the paper rests in the same place for each layer. Shop for kento chisels, kento stickers and kento boards.

Kitchen Lithography – a form of printmaking that uses the same principles as lithography but uses simple household materials such as aluminium foil and cola!

Letterpress – the practice of printing by hand setting (composition) of lead and wood type and printing using a number of different presses. Letterpress printing remained the primary way to print until the second half of the 20th century.

Lightfastness – usually refers to paper and inks. Change caused by exposure to light.

Limited edition – a set of identical prints taken from the same matrix or matrices (printing surfaces). Limited editions mean that no more of the same prints will be made. Read more about editioning here.

Lino – linoleum – a material made of cork dust and linseed oil with a hessian backing. Used to create relief prints when carved. Shop for lino here.

Linocut – a relief print made using a carved piece of lino. Learn to make a linocut on our blog post.

Lithography – a planographic printmaking process in which ink is applied to a grease-treated image on a flat surface. Moisture repels oil-based ink from the blank areas and the greasy areas attract ink.

Matrix – the printmaking surface – plate, block, stone etc. from which the image is taken.

Medium (printing medium) – a clear substance to which paint is added to create printmaking inks.

Mesh – the woven fabric stretched over a frame to make a silkscreen for screen printing.

Mezzotint – a printmaking technique in which a plate is textured with a rocker to create dark tone. The tonal areas are then polished back to a smooth surface that will not hold ink. The plate is printed intaglio.

Mokuhanga (Japanese Woodblock) – a type of relief printmaking in which brushes are used to ink up a woodblock with watercolour paint and nori paste. Images are printed onto dampened paper in layers, often registered using kento marks. (Moku = wood and Hanga = printmaking).
Learn more about Japanese Woodblock here.

Mokulito – a form of Japanese printmaking meaning ‘wood lithography’. An image is drawn onto the block using greasy materials.

Monoprint – a print made using any printmaking technique from which only one print can be made. Monoprints can be made using and single or multiple printmaking techniques and usually is made using some form of matrix.

Monotype – like a monoprint, a monotype is a print that is one of a kind. Unlike monoprints, monotypes are not made using a matrix such as a cut block or plate.

Multi-Block – a relief print that is made using multiple blocks that print on top of one another to create a multi-coloured final print.

Noise – the marks left behind on a print from areas of a block that have been carved away and have picked up ink from the roller. Sometimes these marks are left to add character or movement to a print.

Nori – starch paste used in Japanese Woodblock Printing. Can also be used for chine collé printing. Shop for nori.

Offset – transferring ink from one surface to another.

Oil-based – inks that use oil as their vehicle (usually linseed oil). Traditionally these need to be cleaned up with solvents but alternatives can now be used: Zest-it can be used for clean up of oil-based inks. Cranfield also make an oil-based but water-washable ink called Caligo which can be washed up with soap and water.

Opaque – impenetrable by light, opposite of transparent, not see-through. Refers to inks that do not show any colour of the paper, fabric or previous print layers through.

Original print – original prints are prints in the medium the artist originally used e.g. linocuts, collagraphs, lithographs, etchings, screenprints etc. This is not the same as a reproduction which is usually digitally printed. 

Overprinting – colours are printed over the top of one another.

Paper fingers – folded pieces of paper or card used to protect paper and blankets from finger marks.

Photo Emulsion – when mixed with sensitiser, a photo emulsion can be used to coat screens to create exposed images for screen printing. Find emulsion here.

Pigment – the coloured particles in an ink.

Planography – a printing process, such as lithography, that prints from a flat surface. The printing and non-printing areas exist n the same plane and rely on chemical properties to hold or repel ink.

Plate – a metal, card or plastic surface used to create an image, usually used when printing intaglio.

Platemark – The embossed mark left on a print made by the edges of the plate when printing through an etching press.

Plate tone – in intaglio printing, the faint tone printed from a plate by the residue of ink left on the plate after wiping.

Process colours – printmaker’s primary colours. Process cyan, magenta and yellow inks can be mixed together to create a wide spectrum of colours. Process colours are often more transparent than other inks and allow for overprinting to create more colours that mix on the surface of a print.

Proof – Artist’s proof prints are made by the artist to check the print quality and design before printing an edition. Artist’s Proof prints usually shouldn’t exceed 10% of the overall number in the edition. They are usually identical to the edition but may sometimes include slightly flawed prints omitted from the edition. See our blog post on editioning prints for more information.

Rainbow roll – When more than one adjacent colour is rolled out onto a plate and mixed in a gradient as the ink is rolled out. See the use of a rainbow roll here.

Reduction – a relief printing method in which the same block is carved into between each layer, leaving a smaller printing surface with each layer. See a reduction linocut here.

Registration – the lining up of print layers or a single print layer onto the substrate.

Registration marks – guides drawn or carved to aid in the proper positioning of matrix and substrate in the printing process.

Relief printing – a printmaking process where the unwanted areas of a block are carved away. The raised areas of the block are charged with ink (usually using a roller) and printed onto a substrate such as paper or fabric. E.g. linocut and woodcut.

Retarder – An ink modifier used to slow down the drying time of ink.

Screen (silkscreen) – Mesh is stretched over a frame to be used for screen printing. A stencil is created on the mesh with paper or by using Photo Emulsion.

Screen film – a transparency on which a design can be digitally printed or hand-drawn, used to expose an image onto a screen for screen printing.

Screenprint – a print made using a screen printing technique.

Screen printing – a printmaking technique that uses a squeegee to force ink through a mesh-stretched screen onto a substrate. Stencils made of paper or exposed onto the mesh using photo emulsion are used to create a design.

Scrim (tarlatan) – rough, loosely woven fabric used in intaglio printing to wipe ink from the plate. Buy scrim here.

Serigraphy – screen printing, referring to a fine art process rather than the commercial process.

Shellac – varnish made from lack resin dissolved in methylated spirits. used to seal collagraph plates.

Shore – hardness, durometer. Used when referring to screen printing squeegees.

Silkscreen – Mesh is stretched over a frame to be used for screen printing. A stencil is created on the mesh with paper or by using Photo Emulsion. Find screens here.

Sizing – a water-resistant coating added to paper.

Snap-off – the distance between a screen and the paper.

Softground – a substance added to the surface of an etching plate to resist acid. A softground can be pressed into with soft tools and objects to create subtle marks and textures before placing in the acid bath.

Solvent – a substance used to dissolve others, often used to clean up oil-based inks.

Spit-bite – an etching technique in which acid is applied to the plate with a brush and water or saliva.

Squeegee – a screen printing tool with a rubber blade fixed to a metal or wooden handle. The blade is used to force ink along the screen and through the mesh. Shop for squeegees.

Stop Out – an acid-resistant substance used in etching to protect an area of metal plate from an acid bath.

Sugarlift – an etching technique in which a sugary solution is painted onto a metal plate. The plate is covered with ground and then washed. The sugar dissolves, exposing areas of the metal which can then be etched in an acid bath.

Sumi – Chinese black ink. Find it here.

Tarlatan (scrim) – rough, loosely woven fabric used in intaglio printing to wipe ink from the plate. Buy scrim here.

Thermofax – a screen made using a carbon photocopy and a thermofax machine, printed with a squeegee in a similar way to screen printing. Get your own thermofaxes here.

Transparent Base – an ink modifier used particularly in screen printing to make ink more transparent.

Trap – the areas of overlap between layers in a print.

Tusche – a greasy drawing medium in the form of a stick or a liquid, used mainly in lithography.

Tympan – a greased plate on a lithographic press

Vinyl – a block that can be carved and printed in a similar way to lino.

Viscosity – the fluidity of an ink.

Viscosity printing – a method of using multiple colours from one plate by using inks of different viscosities.

Water-based – inks that use water as a vehicle. These can be cleaned up with water and tend to dry more quickly than oil-based inks.

Wet-on-dry – printing one colour over the top of another when the first layer has dried.

Wet-on-wet – printing one colour over the top of another whilst the first is still wet.

Whetstone – an abrasive stone used for sharpening tools.

Wiping – in intaglio printmaking where ink is removed from the surface of the plate.

Woodcut – a relief printing process where an image is cut from the plank side of the wood.

Wood Engraving – a printmaking technique in which lines are carved directly into the end grain of a piece of wood.

This glossary is gathered from a few sources including ‘Printmaking: Traditional and Contemporary Techniques’ by Ann D’Arcy Hughes and Hebe Vernon-Morris as well as https://www.annieday.com.au/glossary-printmaking–papermaking-terms

Should I use Caligo Extender or Opaque White?

When mixing shades of ink, we have the choice to dilute the colour with either Opaque White ink or Extender. Both of these give us different results so which should we choose?

We have performed a few experiments to show the difference between mixing with Opaque White and Extender. We have used Cranfield Caligo Safe Wash Relief Inks which are oil-based but water washable.

On the left, Caligo Process Blue is mixed 50/50 with Opaque White. On the right, the Process Blue is mixed 50/50 with Extender. We can see that the colour is much more subdued when mixed with white vs the extender. The white lightens the colour whereas the extender does not dilute the colour nearly as much.

Below, the Process Blue has only been added as a tint to the Opaque White (on the left) and the Extender (on the right). The Opaque White mix has a much more chalky finish and sits more heavily on the paper. The Extender mix has more of a sheen and the colour is stronger.

When layering, we may want the colours underneath to show through or we may want to cover them up.

At the top of both of the prints below, Process Blue has been printed, undiluted, over the top of Process Magenta. We can see a little of the design through the Process Blue as the ink by itself is slightly translucent. At the bottom of the print on the left, a mix of 50/50 Process Blue and Opaque White has been printed over the Magenta.

At the bottom on the right, Process Blue has been mixed 50/50 with Extender and printed over the Magenta. We can see that the white mix is much more opaque and covers up much more of the Magenta than the Extender mix. We can see that the Blue and Magenta have mixed to create a new shade.

In the below experiment, increasing amounts of Process Blue have been added to Extender.

The ink rolled out on the slab shows the transparency of the Extender. We can also see that even a tiny proportion of coloured ink adds enough pigment to make a strong colour.

The transparency of these inks can be seen below where the ink has been rolled out onto white paper.

The same experiment was carried out using Opaque White instead of Extender.

Here, the resulting colours are a lot more opaque and chalky. The colour also changes much more as more Blue is added.

The inks are also much flatter and more opaque when rolled onto white paper.

On the left below is the Extender and on the right, the Opaque White.

Next, we created rainbow rolls. The first graduated from pure Extender to Process Blue.

The colour crept along the Extender quite quickly, creating a fairly even blend.

When creating a rainbow roll graduating from Opaque White to Process Blue, we can see that the White held the colour back much more effectively. The blend is also fairly even.

The blend is more subtle on the right where the Extender has been used.

When printing these rainbow rolls over another colour, we can see the difference in opacity. At the top, where the white rainbow roll has been printed, the Magenta becomes covered much more quickly. At the bottom, where the Extender has been used, the Magenta remains visible underneath the whole rainbow roll. We can see new shades appear as the Blue and Magenta mix on the paper.

The below print shows the Magenta layer overprinted with pure Opaque White, pure Extender, a Process Blue and White mix and a Process Blue and Extender mix.

In conclusion, mixing colours using the Opaque White will lighten colours quickly but will create a slightly chalky finish. Colours mixed with Opaque White will be more effective at covering up subsequent layers of ink or when printing onto coloured surfaces.

Colours mixed with Extender are become transparent and can create new colours when printed over the top of one another. The Extender does not dilute the strength of the colour quickly meaning that only a small amount of coloured ink is required when mixing shades with Extender.

Cranfield Caligo Inks can be found here.

Meet the Maker: Lucy May Schofield

I’m an artist based using printmaking as part of my practice. Since 2015 I have worked in Mokuhanga (water-based woodblock printmaking) and have explored the possibilities of the technique in Japan, where I have studied with master carvers, printers and contemporary printmakers. 

Describe your printmaking process.

Each project requires a slightly different approach. Sometimes a direct drawn mark carved into the woodblock is the beginning of the process for me, and other times I can be captivated by a particular piece of washi and that dictates what kind of print I want to make. Whatever the starting point, I am always required to slow down, be mindful about the process, consider the materials at every point and gradually become completely immersed in the making.

How and where did you learn to print?

In 1999 I went to London College of Printing to study for a BA in Print Media (Book Arts & Crafts). It was there that I was taught letterpress printing by a poet, etching by a fine artist and book making by a retired bookbinder. It was at ‘Bookworks’ in London where I worked while a student that I really learnt the skills needed to make accurate boxes and books. In 2015 while I was living in Japan I began to start my training in Japanese woodblock printmaking through artist residencies at MI-LAB (Mokuhanga Innovation Laboratory) with Keiko Kadota san, close to Mount Fuji.

Where do you work?

I have a live/work space in rural Northumberland, since moving there for a 1 year artist’s residency in 2016. I fell in love with the landscape and light and have continued to be based there when I am not travelling to teach workshops and attend residencies.

Describe a typical day in your studio.

There’s never really a typical day in my studio because I live in a remote and very beautiful place, my day can depend heavily on the weather. If the light is flooding into the studio, then I will use the opportunity to carve woodblocks and cut washi, or complete a book or box making commission. If it’s raining, which it often is in the Tyne Valley, I’ll prepare to print by making a damp pack and mixing pigments in readiness to print in the afternoon and into the evening. If I can manage to take a walk out and explore the moorland in the last hour of sunlight, my favourite time of the day, then I’d consider it a productive day. 

How long have you been printmaking?

I’ve been making artist’s books using letterpress, silkscreen, etching and cyanotype printing since 1999. In the last 5 years I have been committed to exploring non-toxic techniques such as Mokuhanga for environmental concerns and as a means of being able to work from anywhere without the need of a heavy press. 

What inspires you?

The moon, the light, how time behaves and how memory informs us, place, belonging, dislocation, remoteness, ritual, separation, intimacy, impermanence, isolation, repetition, stillness, silence, rhythm, pilgrimage and the colour indigo. 

What have you made that you are most proud of?

I have wanted to learn how to make a traditional scroll since first learning to make books 20 years ago. This year in Japan I finally learned how to. I am currently creating a series of mokuhanga prints representing the passage of time in landscape form to make my longest print to date, in the scroll format. 

Where can we see your work? Where do you sell?

I recently had an artist’s book on show in the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition, which was a mokuhanga printed accordion book. I am preparing a large scale piece of work for an upcoming group show in Glasgow at ‘The Briggait’ gallery in November with 96 pieces of hand formed mulberrry paper made over the 12 daylight hours of the Spring Equinox.

What will we be seeing from you next?

Right now I am busy planning my Autumn and Winter woodblock printmaking workshops around the UK. I have a Mokuhanga retreat planned in the Sussex Downs this November, where participants learn printmaking amongst the beautiful setting of a former Bloomsbury farmhouse. I am beginning to run 3 day workshops close to my studio in Northumberland too, starting this September, to invite people to gather inspiration from the landscape and light and join me in creating woodblock prints. Next year sees the International Mokuhanga Conference in Nara, Japan, and I am working towards a new series of prints using sumi ink. 

Do you have any advice for other printmakers and creatives?

The best advice I’ve ever received in terms of printmaking, was from my Japanese mokuhanga sensei, Tetsuo Soyama san, who said,

‘The world is between the paper and the block. The world changes every minute, therefore the printing can also change.’ 

The wonderful printmaker Katie Baldwin also shared with me her 3 golden rules of Mokuhanga, which though I don’t necessarily follow in my own practice, I try to teach my students.

  1. ‘Kento’ registration first
  2. Stick to the plan
  3. Whatever it takes

Website: www.lucymayschofield.com

Instagram: www.instagram.com/lucymayschofield

Battenburg Press Instagram: www.instagram.com/battenburgpress

Meet the Maker: Wuon Gean Ho

I am an artist printmaker working in print, books and animation. My first degree was veterinary medicine; the minute I graduated I received a government scholarship to study Japanese woodblock printmaking in Kyoto, and since then I’ve worked in both the veterinary field and in printmaking.

Describe your printmaking process.

My recent series of 80 prints, the Diary of a Printmaker series, are about personal experiences and intended to be full of narrative humour: a little satirical, a bit tragic, sometimes absurd. They are made for my dad, who remains in a care home after breaking his neck five years ago. I draw directly on the block from a combination of memory and imagination. Sometimes I take images from life, but often times drawing from life favours a photographic view of the space and can make the final work feel artificial. My imagined view of spaces and places is quite wide angled, using a roving perspective and high viewpoint. There is a dream-like logic to the spaces, which have their own internal references. Sometimes I hide stories, clues, dates, times and images in the work to make a richer narrative. These may not be obvious to anyone but myself, but I like the potential treasure-hunt and slowing of the reading of the image.

How and where did you learn to print?

I made my first linocut in a tent in a field in Art in Action, when I was 11 years old. It was a picture of a cat on a roof, and I got confused as to which part would be black and which white, so I ended up carving most of the block away. After then, I was allowed to make linocuts on the kitchen table at home, which I did, printing away in my spare time until I went to vet school. There was a darkroom in my undergraduate college (St. John’s, Cambridge) which I would spend hours in, teaching myself to develop and print old-style black and white film. By the time I arrived in Japan on the government scholarship I had spent 14 years making prints on my own. 

Why printmaking?

I love printmaking! It’s a fascinating process; the language of the carved line intrigues me; I like the way there is a challenge to say a lot with very little; I like the economy of the medium. I also like the democratic overtones of the medium: something which is affordable, that can be folded and carried, something which can be a cheap thing, easy to post as a gift, can be iconic or throwaway, enduring yet unassuming. Most of all I like the evidence of the touch and the handmade in the printed object
(being old school I love the traces of pressure and the smell of the lavish inks), so much more rewarding to peer at than at a smooth, impersonal, perfectly made surface.

Where do you work?

I work in East London Printmakers C.I.C, a community print workshop in Mile End, London, where I am a keyholder and committee member/ director. Sometimes I work from home in London, and sometimes I make big new bodies of work on residencies. 60 of the current set of prints were made in the Royal Academy Schools in the print room during my fellowship there.

Describe a typical day in your studio.

Hmm, there is no typical day. I prefer to work late though, so will happily do jobs and admin and swim and catch up with people and tidy in the morning, and start work around 2 pm, and work til 10 or later…

How long have you been printmaking?

35 years… That sounds like a very long time! But printmaking has the best people and machines and spaces and attitude… It doesn’t feel that long.

What inspires you?

Situations. The way people move. Funny things that I overhear. The comedy of life. The adoration of pets. Expectations and disappointment. The fact that even though I’m getting older I’m not getting any wiser…

What is your favourite printmaking product?

Sakura oil-based relief inks. They are better than anything else I’ve tried. They have a very fine intense colour and mix to make brilliant blends, and are easy to wipe.

What have you made that you are most proud of?

I always like the latest print, then when I’ve made the next print, I like that one more. My latest print that I really like is called Blue Table Porto, which was about a café in Porto with the most beautiful weather-beaten blue table, spot-lit from above by skylights, surrounded by trendy grey walls and old Turkish carpets, with designer furniture and trailing ferns, and the most undrinkable coffee and inedible cake. It was funny. Cosy and slimming all at once. I like the feeling of being marooned in a sea of carpet and the intensity of making things, like being in my own world.

Where can we see your work? Where do you sell?

Most of my work is on my website www.wuongean.com and my blog www.printplay.wordpress.com
Instagram @wuongean and #diaryofaprintmaker are the freshest sites that I keep updated. I have an Etsy site here, but only a few prints are on it:

If anyone would like to stock my work and sell it for me, please get in touch!

What will we be seeing from you next?

I’m thinking of showing all the Diary of a Printmaker prints as one whole series, as there are 95 of them now. The next project is brewing, but I can’t share anything yet.

Do you have any advice for other printmakers and creatives?

Keep walking towards your goals, even if the path is not straight or easy, because you will always learn something, and the journey is going to be full of surprises.

Editioning Prints

One of the great things about printmaking is that one design can be used to create a whole edition of prints. That being said, editioning is something that some printmakers can find frustrating if you just want to get on with the next design! Knowing how to edition, sign and number your prints can be complicated so here are a few general editioning guidelines to follow:

Original prints are not reproductions

Original prints are prints in the medium the artist originally used e.g. linocuts, collagraphs, lithographs, etchings, screenprints etc. This is not the same as a reproduction which is usually digitally printed. Editioning helps printmakers to distinguish their work from reproduction prints.

Don’t hand sign prints that are not original, such as giclee. Giclee and digital prints can include a signature within the artwork instead.

What is an edition?

An edition is a set of identical prints taken from the same matrix or matrices (printing surfaces). Editions can either be limited or open. Limited editions mean that no more of the same prints will be made.

The modern tradition of signing prints was first introduced by Whistler in the 1870s (Rosslyn, 2018).

Edition sizes

In general, the fewer prints in the edition, the more valuable the print and the higher the price.

You may decide on the desired edition size at the beginning of printing. If so, it is usually a good idea to print a few more to allow for mistakes, misregistration, flaws, colour choice changes etc. When you have finished printing, the prints can go through a curation process in which flawed images are taken out (more on proofs later). The remaining images are the edition and therefore the edition size is set.

Occasionally, edition sizes can be partly decided by the number of prints the matrix can produce. Depending on the technique used, the matrix itself may not survive a large edition size. Collagraphs and drypoints, for example, can degrade with use and can be unable to produce a large number of identical prints.

Some printmakers may choose to print the whole edition in one run. Others may choose to print a few and then continue printing the edition as prints sell. Some methods require the artist to print the whole edition together: reduction relief printing changes the original block as more layers are carved and printed, making it impossible to go back to print more. However you print your edition, it’s important to keep track of your edition size, how many you have printed and signed.

How to number, title and sign

As a general rule, prints are numbered on the left-hand side at the foot of the print, the title (if given) is written in inverted commas in the middle at the foot of the print and we sign on the right-hand side. You can choose whether or not to include a date with this signature. Editioning should be written in pencil, not pen. This is a good idea as it is harder to forge pencil signatures and mistakes can be erased if necessary!

If the print bleeds to the edges of the paper, the print can be numbered and signed along the bottom edge of the image or on the reverse of the paper. Signatures can also be incorporated into prints, for example by carving initials into a lino block (in reverse of course!)

How to number prints

When we number prints, we usually use the x/y format where y is the total number in the whole edition and x is the individual number of the print being signed. For example, an edition of 10 prints would be labelled 1/10, 2/10, 3/10 etc.

Prints are not necessarily numbered in the order in which prints were taken: signing and numbering are often done when the whole edition is finished.

Other edition labels

Variable Edition – VE or EV (or V/E, E/V)
Prints in your edition may vary, either by design or by the nature of the printmaking process you have chosen. Prints may be hand coloured or use chine collé, for example. Prints in editions like this can be labelled VE x/y (or EV x/y). If these prints vary a lot, you could choose to label each print 1/1 but this can make it more complicated for potential buyers to understand the rarity of the work you are selling.

Variations in print editions can also be marked with V1, V2 etc. denoting a different variety of print, for example, a different colourway. (Chesterman and Nelson, 2015).

Artist Proofs – AP, EA (Epreuve d’artiste) or PP (printer’s proofs)
(or A/P, E/A, P/P)
Artist proofs usually shouldn’t exceed 10% of the overall number in the edition. So, if there is an edition of 50, there should not be more than 5 artist proofs. Artist proofs are usually identical to the edition but may include slightly flawed prints omitted from the edition.

Open editions – OE (or O/E)
Open editions are unlimited and have no pre-determined number of prints. The artist may go on printing more if there is demand. Open editions may be marked as OE and can also be numbered OE1, OE2 etc.
Open variable editions may be marked as OVE1, OEV2 etc.

Bon a Tirer – B.A.T (‘Good to shoot’)
The first perfect print to come from the matrix (printing surface) is sometimes called a Bon a Tirer and is labelled B.A.T. This is usually made when the artist themselves is not printing the edition and so a B.A.T print is used to show the print from which the whole edition should be matched. There is usually only one of these.

Trial Proof – TP (or T/P)
Test prints marked TP are usually used to check the development of the print in process. These can be sold and numbered, e.g TP1/5. Trial proofs can sometimes show the development of an image or feature different colours to the final chosen edition prints.

Chops and Stamps
Chops and stamps are seen more often in traditional Chinese and Japanese printmaking. That being said, some printmakers choose to use a stamp or chop to sign their work as a way of being more individual or adding more design elements to the finished work. Chops and stamps can be handmade or made commercially. If chops or stamps are used, they are often printing at the bottom right foot of the print, where the signature might have been.
(Chesterman and Nelson, 2015)

Meet the Maker: Krona Prints

I’m Nathalie Krona of Krona Prints. I am a linocut printmaker from Birmingham, England and I currently live in Edinburgh.

My most popular prints have been pieces that use multiple blocks. I hand burnish all of my prints and work mainly on paper but occasionally play with fabrics.

I’m currently making prints that are re-framing negative experiences and emotions as signs of strength instead of weakness.

Another subject I’m focusing on is the minutiae of millennial life and I’m attempting to create nostalgia for times that haven’t quite passed yet.

Describe your printmaking process.

The majority of my printmaking process involves just thinking about how a print is going to work.

Once I have a strong idea and I’ve worked out in my head how the blocks are going to fit together, the journey from sketch to print is pretty rapid. I get so stuck into the process that I forget to take breaks!

All of my drawing is done with a pencil and paper. I scan the sketches and play around with different colours digitally.

I test print a lot throughout the carving process. I’m not too keen on surprises!

How and where did you learn to print?

I learnt to print by reading the instructions that came with my linocut starter kit. From then on, I’ve just been winging it.

Why printmaking?

In the beginning, printmaking appealed to me because I loved the idea that I could make something for me, and if someone else happened to like it, I could easily make one for them too. It was about sharing and in many ways it still is.

Where do you work?

I work in a tiny studio halfway up a massive hill in Edinburgh.

Two mango wood tables make up my workbench. The larger of the two used to be my dining table, until I realised I liked printmaking much more than I liked dinner parties.

I can just about see Edinburgh Castle from my window and I’m in the process of hanging prints from other artists whose style I love.

Describe a typical day in your studio.

Every day is different, but my favourite type of day is when it’s sunny enough to film a process video.

I prepare by stacking up all of my stools to create a makeshift camera rig. I set up the shot and get the settings on my phone right. I prepare a cold, sugary drink with a straw so I can sustain my energy levels and keep my hands clean and dry. If it’s still light after all of that, I film the video and edit it the same day.

How long have you been printmaking?

I’ve been making linocut prints since December 2016, so about 2 and a half years.

What inspires you?

My background is in psychology and that influences pretty much all of my pieces. Memory, emotions, the zeitgeist, identity and perception are a few topics that regularly inspire me.

Visually, I’m not quite sure what has inspired me until I see the finished print. Recently I can see a lot of 90’s cartoons and Instagram-style interior design coming through in my prints.

What is your favourite printmaking product?

Awagami’s handmade Japanese paper is my current crush. It’s quite overwhelming to print on something which has so much beauty already. I feel like I’m printing on a piece of history.

My all-time favourite products include: Softcut lino, Pfeil tools, Cranfield gold ink and Speedball soft rubber brayers.

What have you made that you are most proud of?

‘She who Walks Away’ is the print I’m most proud of because of the reaction it received. I love that I’ve created something that has inspired strength and perseverance in (mainly) women from all over the world. The print is currently displayed in homes from California to New Zealand. It’s very humbling.

Where can we see your work? Where do you sell?

The best place to see my work is on Instagram. I post pretty much everything I make – including the duds! I also show a lot of my process there too.

I sell most of my favourite pieces on my website www.kronaprints.com. The website also features a blog where I go into a little more detail about the things I’m making.

What will we be seeing from you next?

I’m superstitious and I don’t want to jinx anything… Keep an eye on my Instagram account!

Do you have any advice for other printmakers and creatives?

Create things for yourself. Make things that you want to own and things that make you happy. If you do that, then you’ll pretty much never be disappointed.

Instagram: www.instagram.com/kronaprints
Blog: www.kronaprints.com/blog
Shop: www.kronaprints.com/products

Meet the Maker: Susie Hetherington

I’m a graphic designer primarily, and often work straight to screen, but after having my first daughter I found myself getting back to drawing and enjoyed being more hands on. I began to draw the nature around me and form patterns with the hand drawn elements. This soon progressed to me trying lino block printing. Later down the line I released a collection of digitally printed fabrics based on my botanical lino prints, and it has gone from there. 

I now have three young daughters so I work flexibly around them, and still have local graphic design clients. However, my textiles have really given me the chance to follow my own creative desires again, rather than simply answering a brief. I am very grateful that a change of direction in life, caused by motherhood, made me realise how important my own personal creativity was to me. It is a big part of my identity, and it is good to have found that again.

I sell cushions, lampshades and tea towels as well as fabric for soft furnishings, printed to order by the metre. 

More recently I have also done some Lino prints of period buildings; ones that are personal to me, or commissions of other people’s houses. This is a bit of a treat for me, outside of my normal work, and it allows me to get really detailed and hone my printmaking skills.

Describe your printmaking process.

I draw in black pen, referencing photos I’ve taken on my phone… mainly small details seen in my immediate outdoor surroundings. Trees, leaves, flowers, sometimes birds; any shapes I find beautiful. I scan these drawings into the computer to play with repeat patterns on screen… but then print and trace the resulting pattern tiles to lino. I really enjoy carving and like the imperfections it brings. I find it loosens up my otherwise quite controlled style of drawing.

I print my lino block in repeat, just to see what it looks like, but I find I can’t do long lengths of fabric with my current set up. To allow me to print fabric for interiors, which is where my interest lies, I scan my printed block back into photoshop and ultimately send files to my printer digitally, to be reproduced by the metre. I purposefully leave some imperfections and texture in the files… I want them to look as hand made as they can.

How and where did you learn to print?

My printmaking is pretty much self-taught. When I was at art college, I was largely focussed on learning the skills I needed on the computer for my degree in graphic design. I kick myself now for not making use of the amazing printmaking facilities I could have had access to. So when I started Lino printing much later, I was just following instinct and guessing at what I needed to do. There is probably lots more I could learn if I went on a more advanced course, and one day I would love to do just that. It would be great to work alongside other printmakers and to use a proper press.

Why printmaking?

I find carving Lino really satisfying, and I love learning how to create an image just by observing light and dark areas of an image. With patterns, block printing is a great way to produce a repeat, and I love the natural variations and texture you can bring to something that started off as a drawing.

Where do you work?

Currently I work at home, in our rather overcrowded cottage near Stroud, in the Cotswolds. I often struggle with not having a proper studio yet; three little kids and my materials stored here there and everywhere makes for a tricky working environment. My partner has commented that he thinks the bathroom is the only room in the house where I don’t have some sort of work stored! But I am really lucky to work from our location as we live in a beautiful village on National Trust common land. On my doorstep I have never-ending inspiration. The Stroud Valleys also has a very high density of other artists, and opportunities to sell/exhibit work together are plentiful. Some artistic/maker friends in our village formed ‘Amberley Artisans’ with me, and we put on a Christmas Market each year. It’s a great way to connect with a wider audience and I find the connections I have made avoid me feeling too isolated when working from home. My graphic design work is also useful with that… my work life is very varied and busy.

Describe a typical day in your studio.

A work day doesn’t start until I have done the school and playgroup run… and ideally that is on foot so I can sometimes take photos on my way there and back, to come back to when I get a chance. Just the fresh air is a good start to a productive day. 

I must admit, that a huge proportion of my work involves no block printing at all. I have often created drawings in snatched moments over the course of many weeks, and then when I get a break in my other work, I start developing patterns and carving. Last year I carved about five blocks on my week long summer holiday… it took having a total break from the routine to give me that focus.

I often find I work like this in bursts when it comes to printmaking. Months of gathering photos or doing small drawings, suddenly comes to a head when I bring a design together and get a chance to carve. Once I have started a block I get totally addicted to the process and will do anything to make time for it. I have even carved Lino whilst parked up in a car before! I tend to print my work in the evening, when the coast is clear. I can find myself working late into the night to get results I am happy with. 

How long have you been printmaking?

I think I first picked up my first Lino tool about 6 years ago.

What inspires you?

My work almost exclusively features leaves, flowers and trees that I have seen within a mile of my house. I often feel like nature has done the hard work for me, as I see patterns everywhere I go. 

I am also very inspired by Arts & Craft designers. William Morris and Voysey are my absolute heroes. But I also find the modern connectivity of Instagram is really great for me being able to surround myself in things I find beautiful. I definitely find that online community a source of encouragement and inspiration, as well as a good outlet for my work.

What is your favourite printmaking product?

I don’t use anything fancy, and I use a mix of traditional and soft cut Lino, and a mix of papers too. I am currently using Aqua-Linoldruck ink from Schmincke, as I really like it being water-based for easy cleaning up. I am particularly attached to a really old palette knife and a baren I had from the beginning… not because they are anything special but if you use a tool for long enough it becomes an old friend!

What have you made that you are most proud of?

There are definitely some favourite fabrics that stick out from collections I have made. ‘Rodborough Whitebeam’ is one that seems to be enduringly popular, and it was inspired by a tree just along from my house. I am just releasing a fabric called ‘Waterlily’ that I am particularly pleased with. I am also really proud of some of my Lino prints of houses… they are so detailed that it takes very little to go wrong and ruin a block. So if they turn out well it feels like a personal achievement. 

Where can we see your work? Where do you sell?

I mainly sell my fabric and some products directly from my website www.susiehetherington.co.uk but my fabrics do also sell through both shops and via interior designers. I haven’t yet released proper pattern books so it tends to work on a sample basis. Locally I sell some cushions and tea towels at my favourite museum, ‘Museum in the Park’ in Stroud. Also, I have designed the branding and packaging for my favourite client ‘Soap Folk’ (www.soapfolk.com) and these products can be found in a variety of independent shops and directly from the Soap Folk website.

What will we be seeing from you next?

My new collection of fabrics is ready to go, and will soon be featured online and in press. Keep an eye out for it! I also have some exciting graphic design projects in the pipeline, though that side of my work is very anonymous. Perhaps I should shout about it more.

Do you have any advice for other printmakers and creatives?

I think the main advice that has helped me is that just getting on and doing is better than overthinking what you are going to do and what it will turn into. I had no idea where drawing again would take me. I had no idea what was going to happen when I picked up a Lino cutting tool for the first time. I now teach beginner Lino cutting workshops from time to time, and that is my main message; don’t worry too much about the results. You learn so much just by doing.

Making a Multi-Block Linocut

A multi-block linocut uses more than one piece of lino to create a layered image. Usually, each block is inked with a separate colour. Where the colours overlap, another colour can be achieved.

Multi-block linocuts allow you to partially print an edition and create complete test prints as you can go back to each block to print more. This is one of the advantages of using the multi-block method rather than a reduction linocut (where just one block is used and carved away between layers). Another advantage of multi-block over reduction linocut is the freedom you have when choosing colours: not all the layers have to be printed over the top of the previous colour and so cleaner and more contrasted colours can be used.

Multi-block linocuts can be tricky as each block must be cut accurately in order for the layers to register well.

To begin our multi-block linocut, we need an accurate drawing cut to the same size as the lino. Here, we decide which area will be which colour and where they will overlap. This print consists of a cyan and a magenta layer. Try to choose two pieces of lino that are as close in size as possible. If the two blocks vary in size slightly, pick a corner from which to register the drawing. Remember this corner for later.

Use the drawing to transfer the design onto each block. Place red carbon paper onto the block and, with the drawing on top, draw over the design. It is important that this drawing is accurate so it is a good idea to use masking tape to secure the drawing to the block whilst you are drawing.

We want our umbrella to print from each block so it is being left uncarved on both blocks. The backgrounds need to be cut away from both blocks. We are using a large shallow U tool to carve the background from the magenta block (the top block in the picture below). We are using a shallow U tool to carve the background away from our cyan block. We want some of this cyan background to pick up ink and print like rain.

The coat of our figure is being printed in magenta so it is cut away from our cyan block and left uncarved on the magenta block. The spines of the umbrella are cut away from the magenta block.

We are adding a little pattern to our umbrella on the cyan block. A small U tool can be used to create little half-moon shapes by digging the end of the tool into the lino and flicking up with the tool to snap off the piece. This technique only works with traditional lino as softcuts and vinyl will not snap.

When the blocks are cut, we can prepare our registration board. We are using Ternes Burton pins and tabs to make sure our paper goes down in exactly the same place each time. Place a piece of the printing paper onto a board. Place a pair of Ternes Burton pins above and snap a tab onto each one. The bottom half of each tab should overlap the paper.

Use parcel tape to secure the pins to the board. Use masking tape to stick the two tabs onto the back of the piece of paper. It is useful to draw around your print paper whilst it is in position: this will help us to position our lino in the middle later.

Place each piece of paper down on the board, snap a new pair of tabs onto the pins and masking tape them to the back of the paper. Do this for your whole edition (although with a multi-block linocut you can always go back and add more prints later).

Place one of the lino blocks onto the board. Use your pencil marks to help to position it straight and in the centre.

Use strips of mount board to create raised edges in which the blocks can be positioned. You can choose to create corners, as in the image below, or place one piece in the centre of each edge. Secure firmly with masking tape.

If your lino blocks vary very slightly in size, make sure they both fit into the slot. Mark the corner to which you registered the drawing on your blocks. When you place the blocks in the slot you’ll want to make sure they’re all hard up against this corner.

Our cyan block is being printed first. We are using Caligo Safewash Inks in Process Cyan mixed with a little extender. Roll out an even square of ink the same dimensions as the width of the roller.

Roll the ink onto the block and place it into the slot on the board. Make a note of which way up it goes: the top of our print is on the right.

Click the tabs on one of your pieces of printing paper onto the pins and, starting from the pinned end, gently lower the paper onto the block.

Put the whole board through a press (you may want to protect any blankets from the pins with a few sheets of newsprint as, although the pins are slightly lower than the lino, if the press is too tight they could mark them). Alternatively, cover the back of the paper with a sheet of greaseproof paper and hand burnish with a baren.

Repeat the inking and printing steps for each of the prepared pieces of paper. As this is a multi-block linocut, you can always go back and print more of layer 1 if you need to.

Our second block will be printed in Caligo Safewash Process Magenta Ink mixed with a little extender to make it a little more translucent.

We do not want any of our background to print in this colour so any ink that was picked up has been wiped away.

Place the second block into the slot on the board making sure it is in the same orientation as the first block.

Place the tabs of the paper onto the pins and gently lower it onto the inked block. Take the print through a press or hand burnish, as before.

Where our cyan and magenta layers have overlapped we have a purple umbrella. The patterned cuts on the cyan layer let the magenta show. The cuts on the spokes on the magenta layer allow cyan spokes to show through.

For this project you will need: